Top-Drawer Shirts & Ties

March, 1990

Ever Since the uncomfortably starched detachable Gladstone collar made its de-but in the late 19th Century, collars have defined the lines of a finely tailored shirt. Although they're no longer detachable, thank God, they are the finishing touch that brings together one's jacket with a choice of tie. Long and pointed narrow-spread styles are hot right now, as they both flatter a suit's silhouette and highlight a narrow-knotted tie. Men with thin, elongated faces, however, should opt for shirts with medium-spread collars. When shopping, also look for the new high-stance buttondown and button/ tab collars that accentuate the tie by hugging the neck. (Incidentally, the rule of thumb for proper shirt-collar height is about one half inch above the back of the jacket collar.) Many shirt styles have bold or antique-style stripes on ecru or off-white backgrounds. Just remember to wear them with a suit or a sports jacket that has a minimal pattern. With the resurgence of interest in men's jewelry, cuff links and tie bars, clasps and clips (see Ties Are Barred in Playboy on the Scene) are back, bigger than ever. Ties are still wide, soft and colorful, with only a minimum of lining. Patterns run from prints such as fruits and vegetables to abstracts reminiscent of another era. Tie one on today!